House training a puppy takes time and commitment. Puppies don’t just train themselves, although some are easier to train then others. Everyone in the household must be willing to help with the training such as taking the puppy outside at all hours, supervising the puppy so that accidents don’t happen, and cleaning up when they do. The process of house training your puppy may take several weeks or several months. If you are patient and consistent you should be very successful in house training your puppy.
Puppies will need to ‘go’ more often than an adult dog. Take the puppy to the area where you want him to ‘go’ at times when he is most likely to need to go: such as after waking from a nap or first thing in the morning, after eating, and after playing and watch for signs like circling and figure 8's with the nose down and sniffing. When taking the puppy outside to the potty area you should talk to him, ask “do you want to go outside?” or “do you need to go potty?” or some other phrase your family decides on but use the same one every time you are going outside.
Puppies learn by routine, so it is a good idea to take your puppy outside using the same door going to the same potty area each and every time. While in the potty area prompt your puppy to walk around and say to him “go potty” or “get to it”. After your puppy goes, praise him lavishly tell him “good boy” and reward him with a treat while still outside. It is very important that you reward him for going in the appropriate place, this is how he establishes his preference.
It is a fact that no matter how good a job you do at house training, your puppy is going to have some accidents. If you catch your puppy in the “act” do not yell at him, kick or hit him. Just use a verbal command in a firm tone and tell him “no” to merely interrupt the behavior. Then take him out side to his potty area and encourage him to “go potty” if he goes don’t forget to reward him.
If your puppy has an accident in the house and is not caught in the act, the timing to punish is lost, the puppy will not understand what he is being punished for, yelling and rubbing his noses in it will not do any good and will make him scared to go in front of you even outside where he’s being shown to go, so I can’t say it enough, don’t hit, yell, spank, or rub his nose in it, that old wise tail just doesn’t work. Simply clean up the mess and try to supervise him more carefully.
Clean any soiled area with a good enzymatic cleaner, puppies will be attracted back to the soiled area by the smell if not cleaned up properly.
The best way to prevent your puppy from having accidents in the house is to supervise him constantly. Keep him leashed to your belt or to your chair, or place gates in doorways and closing doors to other rooms to keep your puppy in your sight. Once your puppy understands going outside to potty and is having fewer accidents in the house you can provide him more freedom. This should be done gradually over a few days or weeks. There shouldn’t be a sudden transition from constant supervision to no supervision. If your puppy has an accident when you are giving him to much freedom, go back to more supervision for a while and then try again later, eventually your puppy will be completely house trained!
Remember that training your puppy is partly done by training yourself to watch him closely!!
Low Blood Sugar (Hypoglycemia) in dachshund puppies
Because puppies have such a small fat reserve around their liver, they are prone to low blood sugar. Although this can occur at any time, it's especially important to watch your new puppy due to his small size.
Symptoms: Lethargy, lack of coordination (stumbling, falling, staggering).
Treatment: Although you should always consult your veterinarian for the proper treatment of your particular puppy, you can keep some sugar handy (e.g. Nutri-Cal, Nutri-Stat, Vitacal, Karo Syrup, honey, sugar water) to boost your little friend's blood sugar level when it starts dropping. You MUST treat this problem immediately or your pup can go into shock. To avoid this problem, do not over-play with extra tiny pups and always make sure your dog eats well and gets a good drink of water before taking them out.
Good eating habits also help prevent Hypoglycemia. This can be achieved by feeding your pup good HIGH PROTEIN PUPPY FOOD. Contrary to what many believe, feeding a toy puppy certain types of FAT will not prevent and may actually help cause Hypoglycemia. That's because their small bodies lack the digestive process needed to get any value out of most dog food fat. It merely passes, and in doing so, requires the dog's digestive system to work harder for less benefit. We recommends Vitacal for instant energy and Nu-Vet supplements to help prevent Hypoglycemia. The ingredients help stimulate the dog's natural desire to feed and provide the vitamins and minerals necessary for proper digestion, without making the dog's system work harder for less benefit. These are also, helpful to be given before and after travel, like in shipping stress.
Every breeder has their own preference for vaccination schedules. This is ours.
we give our puppies a combination 5-way shot at: 6, 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. Rabies' is given at 5 months of age. We de-worm our puppies at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age.
Our adult dogs are given heartgard once a month to prevent heartworm's, our dams are de-wormed at the same time the puppies are de-wormed, Rabies is given once every three years after the first one is given at 5 months.
We do NOT give these vaccines:
•Lepto (Dachshunds should never be given Lepto, alway ask your vet not to give your dachshund this vaccine)
Parvo and distemper kill more dogs than anything else and they are totally preventable. It is strongly recommended that you NOT allow puppies to socialize with other dogs outside of the kennel until they are at least 14 weeks old. This means do not allow the puppies outside on grass or other dirt where other unknown dogs have visited until their first array of shots has been completed. Do not take the puppies to shows or trials, and if you are going to take them outside to socialize them, carry them 100% of the time they are outside. Do not take the puppies with you to the pet store as pet stores have all kinds of young (and sometimes sick) puppies running through them.
On very rare occasions any animal or human may have a reaction to a vaccination. These are just like the reactions that can occur after an insect sting or medication hypersensitivity. This kind of reaction can be very serious and life-threatening and thankfully is very uncommon. If your pup simply seems a little tired or slightly uncomfortable where it was vaccinated, that is an entirely different and mild response to the vaccination. If you are not sure that your pup is OK, call your veterinarian for advice.
Though the chance of this serious adverse reaction happening is extremely low (your dog is far more likely to die from almost any thing else), it's worth having a shot of epinephrine in your medical kit, as it can also help in case of skunk toxic shock. Revival Animal Health sells a single shot of non-prescription epinephrine (AMVET brand) which contains a 1 mg dose for emergency use only in the treatment of anaphylactic shock.
About The Breed: Dachshund (Miniature)
Some have theorized that the early roots of the Dachshund go back to Ancient Egypt, where engravings were made featuring short-legged hunting dogs. But in its modern incarnation, the Dachshund is a creation of European breeders, and includes elements of German, French, and English hounds and terriers. Dachshunds have been kept by royal courts all over Europe, including that of Queen Victoria, who was particularly enamored of the breed.
The first verifiable references to the Dachshund, originally named the "Tachs Kriecher" (badger crawler) or "Tachs Krieger" (badger catcher), come from books written in the early 1700s. Prior to that, there exist references to "badger dogs" and "hole dogs", but these likely refer to purposes rather than to specific breeds. The original German Dachshunds were larger than the modern full-size variety, weighing between 30 and 40 lb (14 to 18 kg), and originally came in straight-legged and crook-legged varieties (the modern Dachshund is descended from the latter). Though the breed is famous for its use in exterminating badgers and badger-baiting, Dachshunds were also commonly used for rabbit and fox hunting, for locating wounded deer, and in packs were known to hunt game as large as wild boar and as fierce as the wolverine.
The Dachshund is a short-legged, elongated dog breed of the hound family. The breed's name is German and literally means badger dog (der Dachs—badger; der Hund—dog). The breed was developed to scent, chase, and hunt badgers and other hole-dwelling animals. Due to the long, narrow build, they are sometimes referred to in the United States and elsewhere as a wiener dog, hot dog, or sausage dog. Although Dachshund is a German word, in German the Dachshund is known most commonly as the Dackel or Teckel.
Modern Dachshunds are characterized by their crooked legs, loose skin, and barrel-like chest, attributes that were deliberately added to the breed to increase their ability to burrow into tight spaces, as well as the long tail, which in hunting situations, is often used by the owner as a handle, to aid in extracting the Dachshund from the burrow hole after capturing its prey. They come in three coat varieties: Smooth, Longhaired, and Wirehaired; the Wirehaired variety is generally shorter in spine length than the other two. According to kennel club standards, the Miniature variety differs from the full-size only by size and weight, however, offspring from Miniature parents must never weigh more than the Miniature standard to be considered a Miniature as well.
Dachshunds have an enormous range of coloration. Dominant colors and patterns are red and black & tan, but also occurring are cream, blue, wild boar, chocolate brown, fawn, and a lighter "boar" red. The reds range from coppers to deep rusts, with somewhat common coarse black hairs peppered along the back, tail, face, and ear edges, lending much character and an almost burnished appearance; this is often very desirable and is referred to among breeders and enthusiasts as "stag", or an "overlay". Solid black and solid chocolate-brown Dachshunds occur and, even though quite handsome, their colors are nonstandard; that is, the dogs are disqualified from conformance competitions in the U.S. and of either kind usually sport light grey, light hazel, green or blue eyes, rather than the various shades of brown, they can also have two different color eyes, such as the dapple, can in rare cases have a blue and brown eye. Color aside, this eye condition has led to the double dapple coat being extremely disfavored among responsible breeders and owners.
The breed is known to have spinal problems, due in part to an extremely long spinal column and short rib cage. The risk of injury can be worsened by obesity, which places greater strain on the vertebrae, but many an owner with an injured, skinny Dachshund will confirm that these problems are largely genetic. In order to prevent injury, it is recommended that Dachshunds be discouraged from jumping and taking stairs, and the importance of holding the dog properly cannot be stressed enough. Many veterinarians, however, indicate that as long as the Dachshund takes the stairs slowly, the dog's spine will manage just fine. The Dachshund should only be picked up when both front and rear portions of the body are fully supported. A good technique is the typical "football carry" used by running backs or others in a game when rushing the ball, with the dog tucked underneath the arm, against the body, and supported along the length of the carrier's bent arm, hand under the upper chest, and tail near the elbow. This method supports the weight of the rear body, preventing wiggling and twisting of the dog to right itself. As it has become increasingly apparent that the occurrence and severity of these spinal problems, or intervertebral disk disease, is largely hereditary, responsible breeders are working to eliminate this characteristic in the breed. Treatment consists of various combinations of crate confinement and courses of anti-inflammatory medications (steroids), and may even lead to surgical intervention to remove the troublesome disk(s). Other treatments that have been used with some success include TENS, acupuncture, physical therapy, moxibustion, chiropractic manipulation, and massage. The use of arthritis medication such as Rimadyl, (which failed clinical trials for humans), has reverted to the subjects of its previous testing: dogs, with great results in relieving skeletal back pain.
5 to 9 inches.
Dachshunds are loyal, playful fun dogs, known for their propensity to chase small animals and birds with great determination and ferocity. Many dachshunds are a little strong headed, making them not as easy to train. According to the American Kennel Club's breed standards, "the Dachshund is clever, lively and courageous to the point of rashness, persevering in above and below ground work, with all the senses well-developed. Any display of shyness is a serious fault," and this would be a statement unanimously recognized by experienced owners. Their temperament and body language give the impression that they either do not know, or care, about their relatively small and comical stature. Individuals which are indulged may become snappy. The Dachshund is known for his deep and soulful eyes and complex and telling facial expressions, the eyes having an "allure" that is quite commonly referenced in writings about the breed. Coat type is often considered to be associated with characteristic temperaments; the long-haired variety, for instance, is considered to be less excitable than the other types, having been cross-bred with the even-tempered Spaniel in order to obtain its characteristic long coat; however some who own long-haired Dachshunds might disagree with this statement. Because of the breed's characteristic barrel-like chest, the dachshund's lungs are unusually large, making for a sonorous and richly timbred bark that belies the dog's true size.
Talents and Skills
Hunting, tracking, watchdog, and performing tricks.
The name "Dachshund" comes from German (dachs) badger (hund) dog but in Germany, its country of origin, the breed is known as the "Teckel." Early German documents from the 16th century refer to predecessors of the Dachshund dog, a little "earth dog", "badger digger." Often hunted in packs, they were bred for hunting ferocious badgers (in Europe) and would follow them right into their underground burrows, drag them out and kill them. The original Dachshunds were smooth coated. Longhaired Dachshunds came later, followed by the Wirehaired variety near the end of the 18th century. The first Teckel stud book was created in Germany in 1890 and it referred to Smooth, Longhaired and Wirehaired Dachshund dog varieties. The working ability of the Dachshund dog is paramount and thus its size and structure are chiefly functional. Miniature Dachshund varieties came later.
Miniature Dachshund: 11 lbs. (5 kg) & under.
Height Mini: 5 - 6 in. (12.7 - 15.2 cm) at withers.
Standard Variety: over 11 lbs. (usually 16 - 32 lbs.).
Height Standard: 8 - 9 in. (20.3 - 22.9 cm) at withers.
Other Name: Teckel.
Life Expectancy: 12 - 20 years.
A Dachshund dog is clever, lively and courageous even to the point of rashness, definitely not shy. They make fun loving active pets whose daily physical and mental exercise needs, while not excessive, should never be neglected. A Dachshund puppy is trainable, becoming a lovable, loyal family member, an exceptional watchdog.
In the United States, Dachshunds are bred and shown in two sizes, Standard Dachshund and Miniature Dachshund. The Miniature Dachshund is not a separate classification but competes in a class division for "11 lb. and under at 12 months of age, and older." With the three different coats, they are considered to be three varieties.
Coat--Short, smooth and shining. Should be neither too long nor too thick. Ears not leathery. Tail--Gradually tapered to a point, well but not too richly haired. Long sleek bristles on the underside are considered a patch of strong-growing hair, not a fault. A brush tail is a fault, as is also a partly or wholly hairless tail.
Coat-- With the exception of jaw, eyebrows, and ears, the whole body is covered with a uniform tight, short, thick, rough, hard, outer coat but with finer, somewhat softer, shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the coarser hairs. The absence of an undercoat is a fault. The distinctive facial furnishings include a beard and eyebrows. On the ears the hair is shorter than on the body, almost smooth. The general arrangement of the hair is such that the wirehaired Dachshund, when viewed from a distance, resembles the smooth. Any sort of soft hair in the outercoat, wherever found on the body, especially on the top of the head, is a fault. The same is true of long, curly, or wavy hair, or hair that sticks out irregularly in all directions. Tail-- Robust, thickly haired, gradually tapering to a point. A flag tail is a fault. Color of Hair--While the most common colors are wild boar, black and tan, and various shades of red, all colors are admissible. A small amount of white on the chest, although acceptable, is not desirable. Nose and nails--same as for the smooth variety.
Coat--The sleek, glistening, often slightly wavy hair is longer under the neck and on the forechest, the underside of the body, the ears, and behind the legs. The coat gives the dog an elegant appearance. Short hair on the ear is not desirable. Too profuse a coat which masks type, equally long hair over the whole body, a curly coat, or a pronounced parting on the back are faults.
Tail--Carried gracefully in prolongation of the spine; the hair attains its greatest length here and forms a veritable flag. Color of Hair--Same as for the smooth Dachshund. Nose and nails—same as for the smooth.
De-skunking Home Remedy
Crossing the path of a skunk can leave your pet smelling like the cartoon character Pepe Le Pew. To help alleviate the irritating, powerful odor, a world-renown veterinary by the name of Dale C. Johnson, DVM offers a homemade recipe to have your dog or cat smell less like a skunk. Dr. Johnson has tried several experiments to remove the skunk smell from sprayed animals. As a Dog owning veterinarian, he says many of the common antidotes that people try, but fail to do the job, are tomato juice, vinegar and different types of shampoos. Dr. Johnson recommends a home recipe using ingredients that can be found in most drugstores.
* One quart 3 percent hydrogen peroxide
* One-fourth cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
* One teaspoon liquid soap
He says to begin by wetting the animal down, then apply the mixture and work it through the animal's hair. Leave the solution on three to four minutes, and finish with a tap water rinse.
Caution: Make up only as much of the de-skunking remedy as you can use at one time, It is unsafe to bottle and store this chemical combination.
This is the animal that the Dachshund was bred to hunt!
A little more on Badgers:
Classification: Order Carnivora, Family Mustelidae.
Description: The shaggy coat is grayish or brownish with a white stripe on the head often extending down the back. The body is stout with short legs; the front feet are partially webbed and have long, curved claws, and the hind feet have shovel-like claws. There are 2 white-ringed black markings on the face. Length of head and body 24-29 in, tail 4-5.6 in; weight 14-26 lb.
When frightened it can be quite aggressive, snarling and growling. It is normally solitary except during the reproductive season when pairs may form. It is a good swimmer, and is active both by day and by night. It lives in dens in burrows. Mating occurs in late summer or early autumn, and 1-5 young are born in March-April. The young are born furred, but blind. They are independent by August. The fur has little commercial value. The main predators of the American badger are coyotes and eagles, but the main enemy of this species is the automobile; traps, guns, and poisoned bait have also played a large part in greatly reducing its numbers.
The following a great site for all the dachshund information you will ever need on deciding if a dachshund is right for you or as family pets.
There is a health risks on dilute dachshunds I would like to bring to your attention called "Color Dilution Alopecia" (CDA) characterized by loss of hair from dilute pigmented areas, coats are normal at birth, and onset of hair loss usually begins between 6 month and 3 years of age. The skin in the affected areas is usually scaly and develop's bacterial infections. they will have pus filled open sores, and scabby sore skin. There is no cure for (CDA), treatment is limited in controlling the scabbiness and treating the bacterial infections that they continue to get. Again it is very possible to get Blue/tan and Isabella's that do not suffer from this PAINFUL condition, research the parents of, and it's lineage to make sure that they do not suffer from CDA before you buy a dilute puppy.
The following is a short version of the research, and is a long way from being proven, although it could help explain why some dilute animals are unaffected by CDA.
Dogs with a genotype dd would be normal coated dilutes, ddl would be intermediates (mildly affected?) and dldl would be CDA affected. A genotype of Ddl should represent deeply pigmented dogs which were carriers of CDA. i.e. black or chocolate dogs, carrying for CDA. New research is now finding more information on CDA and these findings have found that dilute piebald or dilute dapple patterns would be one of the genotype dd allele being normal coated dilutes.
Therefore; Breeding dd allele with dd allele will produce off-spring with normal coated dilutes. (No CDA)
Breeding a dd allele with dl or Ddl would increase the chance of dilute offspring developing CDA by 20%.
Breeding a dl allele with dl allele would increase the chance of dilute off-spring developing CDA by 50%
Breeding a dl allele with dldl would increase the chance of dilute off-spring developing CDA by 80%.
At Diamond Dachshunds we have decided not to breed for the dilute coat colors until more research is done on CDA, it is our goal to only provide healthy puppies for a lifetime, we do not feel we can do that with the dilute colors.
Hidden Dangers To Your Puppy
Puppies love to lick the face of their new owners, but sometimes this can cause health issues for your new pet. If you're wearing Make-Up, do not allow the puppy to lick your face. The chemicals in Make-Up can make your new pet seriously ill!
If you have recently had your carpets cleaned with chemicals, those chemicals can make your pet very sick. Be sure your pup doesn't lick the carpet. Keep pups off of freshly mopped floors that may have chemicals on them. You should also be careful that your puppy doesn't eat or lick candy (especially chocolate!), bug bait and other pest control materials or snow melting chemicals.
If a puppy starts throwing up, but has no temperature or has been checked for infections or common diseases and has none, it may have eaten or licked something it shouldn't have. If you take a puppy like that to the Vet, be sure you tell them about any possible poisoning situations (carpet cleaner, floor washing chemicals, Make-Up, etc). Once you purchase your pup, it becomes your pet and your responsibility. Please take every precaution to keep your new pet healthy.
If your puppy has any trouble breathing after a vaccination, or seems weak, staggers, has pale gums or seems at all unresponsive... get back to your veterinarian immediately!
Never give a dog Tylenol, not even the generic form, it can make them very sick even if it is Tylenol for babies.
10 Plants That Can Poison Pups
Keep this greenery out of your house and yard.
top 10 most common poisonous houseplants and landscape plants dog owners should avoid:
Autumn crocus (Colchicum): Its active ingredient, colchicines, triggers an anti-metabolic effect that can cause rapidly dividing cells, shedding of the gastrointestinal tract, bloody diarrhea, and vomiting.
Azalea (Rhododendron): This popular plant can harm a dog's cardiovascular system and trigger vomiting or gastrointestinal upset.
Daffodil (Narcissus): Toxic ingredients in the bulbs cause convulsions, tremors, lethargy, weakness, and upset stomachs.
Hyacinth (Hyacinth): This popular plant can cause severe vomiting, bloody diarrhea, depression, and tremors.
Japanese yew (Taxis): Extremely toxic to dogs, this group of ornamental plants can cause seizures or cardiac failure. The plant and red berries are toxic.
Lily of the valley (Convalaria): This plant can cause heart failure, coordination problems, and vomiting. When ingested by pets, the Convallaria majalis plant, also known as Lily of the Valley, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, a drop in heart rate, severe cardiac arrhythmias, and possibly seizures. This plant contains cardiac glycosides, which are also used in many human heart medications. Any pet with a known exposure should be examined by a veterinarian and treated based on their symptoms. Treatment may include blood pressure monitoring, heart monitoring, and, in severe cases, an expensive antidote to bind the toxin.
Oleander (Nerium): Extremely toxic, this popular outdoor plant contains cardiac glycosides that harm the heart, decrease body temperature, cause abnormal pulse rate, and can cause death. Beware: Even people have died from eating hot dogs roasted on an oleander twig.
Rhubarb (Rheum): Although the stalks are used to make pies, the leaves pack the potential to cause kidney damage.
Sago palm (Cycads): Resembling an upside down pineapple, this plant thrives in sandy soils, especially in warmer states such as California, Texas, and Florida. A few seeds can kill a dog.
Tomato (Lycopersicion): Surprisingly, the greenery of this common plant, not the tomato itself, contains solanine, a toxic ingredient that can prompt gastric upset, depression, weakness, and a decrease in heart rate.
Mushrooms: Keep your dog away from any mushrooms. Always assume any ingested mushroom by a dog is toxic and will cause liver failure, The problem is that many poisonous mushrooms often grow together with non-poisonous mushrooms.
Popular in warmer climates, this household and outdoor plant can be extremely harmful to pets. All parts of the plant, including the fronds/leaves, nuts and seeds are especially poisonous to dogs. Ingesting just a small amount can cause severe vomiting, bloody stools, damage to the stomach lining, severe liver failure and, in some cases, death. This plant is one of the most deadly to dogs and long-term survival is poor when ingested. Without treatment, sago palm poisoning can result in severe, irreversible liver failure. Prompt treatment is essential for the best prognosis.
There are two types of Crocus plants: one that blooms in the spring and the other in the autumn. The spring plants are more common and cause only gastrointestinal upset accompanied by vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. However, the autumn Crocus, also known as Meadow Saffron or Colchicum Autumnale, are highly toxic and can cause severe vomiting, gastrointestinal bleeding, and multisystem organ failure with bone marrow suppression. Symptoms may be seen immediately but can also be delayed for days. If you witness your pet eating a crocus and you are not sure what variety it is, it’s best to seek veterinary care immediately for decontamination and treatment.
Fertilizers or soil additives
In addition to flowers and plants, there are other gardening-related dangers that pet owners should be aware of, such as fertilizers and pesticides. While fertilizers are typically fairly safe for pets, those that contain blood meal, bone meal, feather meal and iron may be especially tasty – and dangerous – to them Large ingestions of these products can form a concretion in the stomach, obstructing the gastrointestinal tract and causing severe pancreatitis. Also ingestion of pesticides and insecticides, especially if they contain any organophosphates, can be life-threatening, even when ingested in small amounts.
At Diamond Dachshunds all our breeding dogs are tested for Cord1-PRA
You might ask what is Cord1-PRA (PRA)?
Progressive Retinal Atrophy, more commonly known as PRA, is a general term for a group of diseases causing degeneration of the retina, leading to a loss of vision. One form of this disorder is known as cord1-PRA, which stands for cone-rod dystrophy-PRA. Cord1-PRA is a genetic disorder associated with a recessive mutation in the RPGRIP1 gene, which codes for an important photoreceptor protein in the eye. Like many forms of PRA, Cord1-PRA is breed-specific and is known to occur in Miniature Dachshunds and English Springer Spaniels.
Cone-rod dystrophy first affects the cones in the retina, which are the photoreceptors responsible for detecting bright light or daylight. Rods, or low-light photoreceptors, begin degenerating secondarily. Unfortunately, most dogs affected by Cord1-PRA will eventually become blind and there is no cure at this time.
The age of onset can vary with this disorder. Some dogs will first begin experiencing problems at around 6 months in age, though the average age of onset is around 5 years of age. A small percentage of dogs do not experience any symptoms until as late as 10 years of age. It is not yet known why some dogs will experience late-onset PRA, however, it is likely due to the presence of other genetic modifiers that have not been determined at this time.
Because this disorder is recessive, a dog must have two copies of the mutated gene to exhibit symptoms associated with PRA. A dog can be a carrier of Cord1-PRA (meaning it only has one copy of the mutation) and not show any outward signs of retinal degeneration. A carrier can still pass on the mutated gene to any offspring; mating two carrier dogs can produce offspring affected by Cord1-PRA about 25% of the time.
Animal Genetics accepts buccal swab, blood, and dewclaw samples for testing. Sample collection kits are available and can be ordered at test now.
Animal Genetics UK offers DNA testing for cord1-PRA. The genetic test verifies the presence of the recessive mutation and presents results as one of the following:
P/P = Affected: The dog carries two copies of the mutant gene and is homozygous for the cord1-PRA mutation.
The dog will display symptoms associated with the disorder and will always pass a copy of the mutation to its offspring.
n/P = Carrier: Both the normal and mutant copies of the gene detected. The dog is a carrier for cord1-PRA and could pass on either allele
to any offspring 50% of the time. The dog will not display symptoms associated with the disorder.
n/n = Clear: Dog tested negative for the cord1-PRA mutation and will not pass on the defective gene to its offspring.
Considerations for breeding
Cord1 is a mutation and so it makes sense to breed away from producing animals with two copies of the cord1 mutation. (genetically affected).
Percentages quoted below are chances PER PUPPY.
Clear to Clear will produce 100% clear puppies. These puppies and there offspring will always be clear, additional testing on them will not be needed.
Clear to carrier will produce 50% chance of clear puppies, 50% chance of carriers. (Will need to test puppies wanted for breeding unless they are to be mated to a clear)
Clear to genetically "affected" will produce 100% carriers.
Carrier to carrier will produce 50% chance of carrier puppies, 25% chance of clear puppies and 25% chance of genetically affected puppies. Puppies from this type of breeding will all need to be tested.
Carrier to genetically affected will produce 50% chance of carrier puppies and 50% chance of affected puppies. Puppies from this type of breeding should all be tested.
There is no reason to remove carriers and genetically affecteds from the gene pool. Mated to clears they will not produce genetically affected puppies. We can immediately eliminate PRA caused by the cord1 mutation by not producing puppies with two copies of the gene. This way the mutation will be reduced or eradicated over time without damaging the gene pool.
"Because of the very high frequency of the cord1 mutation, we would advise breeders to take a gradual approach to eliminating the mutation from their stock to avoid restricting the gene pool available. Both carriers and affected dogs can be used to breed - but only when crossed with DNA tested clear dogs" .
Dachshund Pronunciation: Dak sund (click to hear the correct pronunciation)
Welcomes You To Our
Dachshund Information page
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Understanding Dachshund Genetics can be extremely difficult and frustrating for most breeders. I am going to try an cover the basics, but keep in mind there is lots more to the complex dachshund genetic then I can cover here.
The above 3 colors are your basic color scheme with RED being the MOST dominant color and Chocolate/Tan being the least dominant color. Because of their order of colors a red can "carry for" all of the colors below it , but a chocolate/tan has no colors below it and cannot carry for them. A black/tan can only carry for chocolate/tan ect....
RED are unique because you only need one in a breeding pair to produce this color.
Black/tan and Chocolate/Tan require that both parents either are this color or carry this color to produce this color puppies.
Because each dog has a pair (2 genes) for color, your dog may look red but carry for black/tan or chocolate. If bred to a black/tan you would have both red and black/tan puppies born.
Remember black/tan can carry for chocolate, but chocolate cannot carry for black/tan.
Now let add Creams to the colors:
Buying a Cream Dachshund can be very confusing for pet buyers because there are so many breeders advertising Creams under many different names like American Cream, English Cream, shaded cream, ee-cream, ect....... below I will try to explained some of these differences. The majority of English Creams have longhair, but this color is now seen in the smooth coats as well.
English Creams- Although it isn't a pattern, the chinchilla gene which causes the cream color in the English creams, acts on the original color like a pattern. This gene will turn Red and tan hairs only to cream, it does not affect any black hairs. nor does it affect the skin pigmentation, therefore, the English cream will have black nails, whiskers, paw pads, and noses. English Creams are born a dark mousey brown and as they grow (during the first 12wks) they will lose the dark hairs and they will be replaced with cream hairs.
Shaded Cream- is really a shaded red but because the overlay is not affected by the chinchilla genes, the dog will be cream with a black overlay, and is called a shaded cream.
English Shaded creams are born a dark mousey brown and as they grow (during the first 12wks) they will lose most of the dark hairs and they will be replaced with cream hairs, but a blanket of dark hair will stay on their back, tips of the ears ect... this is why they are called a Shaded English Cream. They typically have black nails, whiskers, paw pads, and noses.
Clear Creams also known as ee-creams - These English Creams cannot produce any dark hairs due to a gene they carry known as an ee-red or clear red gene. These English Creams which are the result of a dog inheriting an e gene from both parents and also the chinchilla gene from both parents. The e gene is a masking gene and masks all the black or chocolate hairs on the dogs body making it appear a solid cream color, although genetically they could be a different color, color testing may be helpful in the breeding program when breeding the ee creams. This masking gene can be very dangerous when mixed with dapples as this gene can also hide the dappling and brindle pattern. Many hidden dapples are created this way and it could be a very dangerous situation if the dog is bred to another dapple. ee creams will have cream colored nails and whiskers, but will have paw pads, eye liner, and nose will be the color the dog is genetically, ei: either black it the dog is genetically black, or liver colored if the dog is genetically chocolate, this is because the ee gene doesn't affect the skin pigmentation.
These English Creams are NOT born a dark mousey brown. They are born very light and have absolutely no shading on their coat. From birth to adulthood they will have a solid cream coat.
Black & Cream - In a black/cream you have a black/tan dog but the chinchilla genes have turned the tan points to cream, not affecting the black hairs.
These creams are black with cream points and can be produced by two Solid cream parents or two black/cream parents or a mixture of the two. They have amazing contrast between their dark coats and light creamy points!
If a black/cream puppy is born to a Full English Cream parent and an English Cream Carrier parent that is either red, black/tan, or chocolate/tan there is a big chance that the puppy may look black/cream as a puppy but will turn black/tan as an adult. The only way to know for sure is if both parents are Full English Cream.
Chocolate & Cream - In a Chocolate/cream you have a Chocolate/tan dog but the chinchilla genes have turned the tan points to cream, not affecting the Chocolate hairs. These creams have a chocolate body with cream points, they are difficult to find but are very stunning. They have amazing contrast between their chocolate coats and light creamy points!
American Creams - ya ya ya I know there is no such thing, they are red dogs, and should be registered as such! But we need to list it here to explain why it get's mislabeled as creams, either by lack of knowledge or by greed in which case these unethical breeders will call them cream, and sell them as cream knowing full well they well turn red by the time they are adults.
These puppies are born light and look creamy. At around 12 weeks of age, and as they grow older they will become red. The red can vary from a strawberry blonde to a dark red. This has confused many pet buyers. Many pet buyers are disappointed when their beautiful cream puppies turn red as they grow older.
The American cream is the product of a gene called the blue dilute. When two parents carry for this gene, there is a 25% chance of a cream colored puppy being born. This puppy which is born extremely blonde, usually with a pink nose and pads will turn red in time. Unfortunately, because breeders don't understand what they have, they register the puppy wrong or sell it as a cream. Unlike the English Cream gene which causes puppies to get lighter with age, the American Cream gene, or dilute gene causes the puppy to get darker with age.
ee-red Dachshunds- These dachshunds are born a light creamy color but it is usually obvious that they are red by the time they are 8 wks old. This a masking gene so it can be very dangerous when mixed with dapple patterns as this gene can also hide the dappling (and brindle pattern). Many hidden dapples are created this way and it could be a very dangerous situation if the dog is bred to another dapple. ee reds will have red nails and whiskers. The paw pads, eye liner, and nose will be black, this is because the ee gene doesn't affect the skin pigmentation.
Just a little more on Color Genetics
Dominant Red - Dominant reds or ASPS reds are the most common color of dachshund. This is probably because red is dominant over all other colors. A red carrying no other colors will only produce reds. A red carrying chocolate bred with another chocolate or chocolate carrier can produce chocolate based reds. A red carrying dilute (blue or isabella) bred with another dilute or dilute carrier can produce blue and/or isabella based reds.
Black/Tan - Black/tan is the next most common color, and is recessive to red. Two pointed dogs bred to eachother will never produce a red or a cream unless they carry the e gene in which case they could produce ee reds or ee creams.
Chocolate/Tan - Chocolate is recessive to both dominant red and black. Two chocolates bred together will only produce chocolates. If both carry dilute they can also produce isabellas. Two non-chocolate dogs must carry chocolate in order to produce it.
Blue/Tans - Blues are the dilute form of black. Both dogs must be or carry for the dilute gene and black to produce it. Two blues bred together can only produce blues unless both carry chocolate, then they can produce isabella as well. Dilutes are prone to CDA (color dilution alopecia). Blues tend to be hit harder for this than isabellas for some reason.
Isabella/Tan - Isabellas are the dilutes of chocolates. Two isabellas bred together will only produce isabellas. Both parents must carry both chocolate and dilute in order to produce this color. Dilutes are prone to CDA (color dilution alopecia).
Rant: Blue and isabella, in my opinion, we breeders, shouldn't be breeding for something that is known to have genetic problems, as in CDA (color dilution alopecia). we as breeders should have one common goal "to breed for the betterment of the breed; in health, conformation and temperament". If we can't strive to do that, then we have no business breeding these wonderful little dogs! end rant. Read about CDA below.
Now back to colors;
ee Red (Recessive Red or sometimes referred to as Dilute Red) - ee reds are caused by a recessive gene called the "e" gene. Both dogs must be or carry for the e gene to produce ee reds. The e gene is a masking gene and masks all the black or chocolate hairs on the dogs body making it appear a solid red color, although genetically they could be a different color. This gene can be dangerous when mixed with dapples as this gene can also hide the dappling and brindle pattern. Many hidden dapples are created this way and it could be a very dangerous situation if the dog is bred to another dapple. ee reds are usually born light almost creamy colored, but turn more strawberry red as they get older.
Solids (No tan or cream points)
Dachshunds can come in solid colors. The most common gene for solids is dominant, and one parent must be a non-red solid to produce it, as in solid black, solid chocolate.
Cream (English) - Cream in itself, is recessive and both parents must carry the chinchilla gene to produce it. rather your producing English Cream, Shaded Cream, or ee-Cream both parents must carry the chinchilla gene to produce them,
Okay now let's move on to the Dachshund Patterns
Wild Boar/Sable - both are dominant genes. Wild boar occurs in wire and smooth coats. Sable only occurs in long coats. Being a dominant gene, one parent must be wild boar/sable to produce wild boar/sable puppies. It is more of a pattern and can occur in any color coat types although red wild boars/sables are the most common. Most people confuse shaded reds for wild boar or sable. To be a true wild boar/sable each individual hair must be banded with 2-3 colors. Most red/cream wild boars/sable will appear black/tan or black/cream upon first glance. The pattern usually displays a widow's peak on the head. Nose, nails and eye rims are black. Eyes are dark, the darker the better.
Dapple - Dapple is a dominant gene that dilutes certain parts of the dogs coat. The dappling gene can even hit parts of the eye or the whole eye making it appear wholly or partially blue. One dog must be dapple to produce it. It is not carried. When determining what color dapple you have you have to look at the base color and not the dappling color. Many black/tan dapples are mislabeled as blue dapple, silver dapples, and gray dapples. Many reds and creams can be hidden dapples as the dappling only shows in their shading once they are born and can disappear as they mature. The e gene can also hide dappling. Two dapples should never be bred together as it can create the what is called lethal white combination the double dapples produced. There are dapple modifier genes such as patchwork which can make the dog appear to have 2 colors of dappling instead of one. Blue eyes, Partial or wholly blue (wall) eyes are as acceptable as dark eyes with the dapples, Dappling can be combined with any other patterns.
Double Dapple - As in the regular Dapples listed above the Double dapples is a dominant gene, are the result of breeding two dapples together. They are characterized by having large amount of white areas mixed in with their dappling (not to be confused with dapple piebalds). The white areas on a double dapple usually have rough edging and are random. The white is caused by where the two dapple genes have hit twice. Double dapples are frowned upon as they can be born with major health issues. They can be born wholly or partially deaf, wholly or partially blind, and have eye defects, and even internal organ deformities.
Piebald - Piebald is recessive and both parents must be or carry it to produce it. Piebald pattern can carry for the ticking gene. Ticking is usually not apparent at birth, but shows as they mature, and is described as tiny specks or spots all over the body. For a dog to be considered piebald they must have the following: 4 full white feet or "socks", white chest/stomach, a minimum of 1" of the tail tip must be white, they should have at least one other white area on either the back, head or neck. Dogs showing less white then this would be considered "showing for Piebald" but in reality are not true piebalds at all, and may or may not carry for the piebald pattern. Two true piebalds will produce all piebald puppies. There are no health risks with breeding piebald to piebald.
Piebald's come in three varieties: tuxedo, plated, and extreme.
*Tuxedo piebalds have the minimum allowance of white on them, (with or without ticking).
*Plated piebalds are 50% white, (with or without ticking).
*Extreme piebalds are more than 50% white. (with or without ticking)
Brindle - Brindle is a dominant gene. One parent must be brindle to produce it. The brindle pattern can be hidden by the e gene. Brindle is stripes similar to a tigers stripes where black or dark stripes occur over the entire body although in some specimens the pattern may be visible only in the tan points. There are no health risks with breeding brindle to brindle.
Dapple Piebald - The dapple and brindle pattern can show together. Although characterized by white areas mixed in with the dappling, they look very similar to double dapples, but there are no health risks like double dapples.
Dapple Brindle "Brapple" - Dapple and Brindle can also show together. They are sometimes referred to as "brapples". This can also be dangerous at times because sometimes the dappling and brindling can mesh together and the dappling can go unnoticed.
Brindle Piebald - Brindle and Piebald can also show together, There are no health risks with breeding these two patterns together.
Brindle Dapple Piebald - All three patterns can show together as well. This can also be dangerous at times because sometimes the dappling and brindling can mesh together and the dappling can go unnoticed.
Okay now let's move on to the Dachshund Coats
Long-hair - Long-hairs have long hair. Long-hairs are recessive to both wire and smooth coat and parents must both be or carry long-hair to produce it. Two long-hairs bred together will only ever produce long-hair puppies. The long-hair should be sleek, glistening, often slightly wavy hair is longer under the neck and on forechest, the underside of the body, the ears and behind the legs. The coat gives the dog an elegant appearance. Short hair on the ear is not desirable. Too profuse a coat which masks type, equally long hair over the whole body, a curly coat, or a pronounced parting on the back are faults. Tail-Carried gracefully in prolongation of the spine; the hair attains its greatest length here and forms a veritable flag.
Smooth - Smooths Coats have a short, smooth and shining coat. Should be neither too long nor too thick. Ears not leathery. Tail-Gradually tapered to a point, well but not too richly haired. Smooths are recessive to wire coat, but are dominant to long-hair. Two smooth bred together will never produce a wirehair. A smooth must carry long-hair in order to produce a long hair coat.
Harsh Wirehair - Harsh wire is the correct wire coat. Wirehair is dominant over all other coat types. One parent needs to be wirehair to produce it. Wires, technically, have two coats. They have a smooth undercoat and a harsh wire topcoat. They must be hand stripped in order to maintain a correct coat. Clippers and bathing often will ruin the coat and will make it softer. With the exception of jaw, eyebrows, and ears, the whole body is covered with a uniform tight, short, thick, rough, hard outer coat but with finer, somewhat softer, shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the coarser hairs. The absence of an undercoat is a fault. The distinctive facial furnishings include a beard and eyebrows. On the ears the hair is shorter than on the body, almost smooth. The general arrangement of the hair is such that the wirehaired Dachshund, when viewed from a distance, resembles the smooth
Silky/Soft Wirehair - Silky wires are still considered wirehairs. They do not have the correct coat according to AKC standards for working/showing. They are the result of a wirehair carrying long-hair being bred with another long-hair or dog carrying long-hair. They only have one coat that is a mix between wire and long. They require much more grooming and will need a good trimming, at least around the eyes and feet every once in awhile. They cannot be hand stripped.